Kochi

On paper, Kochi seems to be a lot wrapped up into one thing. Its food draws inspiration from traditional royal Korean cuisine, with dashes of street-food influence. While decidedly Korean, it's executed with French and Japanese cooking techniques gleaned from chef Sunghul Shim's time at Per Se, Le Bernadin and Neta. Oh, and it's fine dining... skewers. Though once you're seated at the understated counter, there's no mistaking that some of the city's best food is served on a stick.  

The vibe: A slip of a restaurant, Kochi leans casual, almost rustic, with heavy woods and minimal accents—except for the growing collection of Michelin plaques above the counter. There are dark, wooded two-top seats available, but the marble bar is the place to be if you'd prefer a show from blue-aproned chefs tweezing micro herbs and searing scallops.

The food: With a Korean name that translates to skewers, much of what you'll find at Kochi is on a stick. And it is all excellent. The tasting menu cycles through skewered bites of octopus layered with delicate cuts of celtuce over a bright curry aioli that begs to be spooned up. Meanwhile, hunks of halibut with caps of caviar swim through a warming, finishing broth of jiri consommé. The dessert is in a league of its own: silky banana ice cream is coated in a firm white chocolate shell and drizzled with savory soy-caramel.  

The drinks: The beverage list cycles through wines from the reaches of France and Portugal to New Zealand. A section is also dedicated to Korean spirits plus teas from the western province of Hadong. And for a sip of all of it, you can opt for the wine pairing for $110.